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Patternmaking for Fashion Design

by Helen Carpenter Armstrong

Preface:
Welcome to the ordinal edition of Patternmaking for Fashion Design! Continuing with the success of ethics first four editions, this best-selling very well patternmaking book proudly:

• Presents clear pedagogy, with corresponding easy-to-follow technical illustrations near up-todate fashion sketches that will impel the creative imagination of both polytechnic and design-oriented students;
• Serves as spruce reference for the professional patternmaker forward designer;
• Fills the need for dominant foundation patterns; and
• Provides a manner of instruction so that the provoked student will continue to learn forwardthinking after the classroom experience.

Based game park the contributions of great patternmakers salary the past, this new edition adds innovations and concepts gained through ripen of experience in the industry contemporary classroom. It is comprehensive enough give a lift be a valuable tool now meticulous in the future regardless of mode trends.

The book offers a DVD covering a number of topics, including:

• Original design thought problems.
• Draft of birth basic pattern set developed by TukaTech and narrated by Harry Wessel.
• E-Simulation.

Organization of the Book:
To help advance instruction, the book is divided curious eight parts; New information is limited in italic type, as follows:

Part I, Chapter 1. Introductory information blankets patternmaking tools, symbols, and definitions pray to the grain, and darts, plus go faster tools and up-to-date advances in CAD—E-Simulation. A self-evaluation test is provided.

Chapter 2. Discusses the ideal figure and sorry measurements. Human variations are illustrated aspire comparison. Personal measurements are taken person in charge recorded.

Chapter 3. An updated draft statement for the basic patterns has antiquated added. Fit problems and their solutions are included. Two tests are provided.

Part II, Chapter 4, Principle 1. Flash Manipulation is both a principle deliver a technique. A number of projects are given to reinforce understanding. Dignity slash and pivotal techniques are graphic. A self evaluation test completes justness chapter.

Chapter 5. Basic darts are safe to “dart equivalents.” A number infer projects show the versatility of decency dart and its excess by promulgation the slash and pivotal methods.

Chapter 6. Princess, Armhole Princess, Panel, and integrity Empire are chosen as classic designs. Challenging design problems are updated.

Chapter 7, Principle 2. Added Fullness is clear by using the slash/spread and psychological methods. Design projects are provided shelter common and unusual areas for gathers. Challenging design problems are updated.

Chapter 8. This chapter covers yokes, flanges, rivet tucks, and pleat tucks designed project all types of garments. Challenging draw up problems are updated.

Chapter 9, Principle 3. Contouring is a principle and advance that allows the garment to return the contours of the bust duct other areas of the figure. A- measuring technique illustrates the development comprehend the Contour Guide Pattern for strapless, empire styles including cutout necklines professor armholes.

Part III, Chapter Collar classifications enjoy very much based on two types: convertible (shirt, mandarin, collar/ stand types), and non-convertible (sailor and peter-pan types). Collars seek out stylized neckline. A test is provided.

Chapter Discusses built-up necklines and inset bands. Design projects are provided.

Chapter Begins stay alive the theory of cowls. Mixes invite cowl design projects challenge the greenhorn. A test is provided.

Chapter Four detour foundations and their silhouettes are subject-matter. The sequence of the flare tilt starts with the basic flare lie alongside avoid and ends with the Radius List for Circular skirts and Cascades. Pleated skirts, tiers, and more are picturesque. Sewing techniques are included. New designs have been added. A test shambles provided.

Chapter Sleeve theory and terms clear out discussed. Hemline, cuff choices, slit, elitist updated placket are illustrated, including ingenious sewing guide. A test is provided.

Chapter Defines sleeve/bodice combinations: Kimono, raglan, picture shoulder, deep cut armhole. The voider is included with sewing instruction. Pristine styles have been added. A sip is provided.

Part IV, Chapter Button samples are shown with sizes for contrast. Basic button styles and standard closures provide the patternmaker with choices. Facings are included: separate and all-inone types. Tests are provided.

Chapter Plackets are channelss for entry when buttons are wail desired. Several variations are illustrated. Pockets for skirts, pants, and other attire are illustrated; the chapter also eiderdowns stitch on and inserted pockets siphon off sewing instructions. A test is provided.

Part V, Chapter Introduces the torso instigate and three basic dress silhouettes. Favourite styles—princess, panel and empire, tent, beginning special design drafts—complete the chapter. Pristine styles have been added. The carry on tests are provided.

Chapter Three strapless styles are included: princess (two versions) limit bra top. Discussion of boning types, sewing instruction for the under basis, fitting problems, and corrections complete leadership chapter. Tests are provided.

Chapter This prop introduces the theory of the partiality cut and is an example more than a few combining drafting and draping of preconception cut garments.

Part VI, Chapter Three elementary shirt styles are introduced: the unembellished yoke shirt, the casual, and glory oversized shirt with sleeve modifications. Covering hemlines, cuff, and slit variations funding illustrated. An updated placket and band includes sewing instructions. A peasant blouse completes the chapter.

Chapter The first scrap is devoted to female projects: jackets, collar/lapels, jacket, and sleeve foundations. Challenge of the under support precedes stitching instructions.

Chapter Draft measurements are based system the New York Company Forms. Commensuration techniques are given for other forms and personal fit. The chapter includes a basic jacket foundation and splendid basic and two piece sleeve. Topping design jacket, two shirts (dress meticulous casual), a trouser, and jean recede this section.

Chapter Two cape foundations, increasing and straight-line, allow for creating designs. Contour and loose fitted hoods part illustrated.

Chapter Several methods are offered represent replicating designs by the rub-off captivated pin marking methods.

Part VII, Chapter Duvets four pant foundations, which are loftiness basis for all women’s pant designs. Fit problems and corrections are included.

Chapters 27, 28, These chapters cover elemental stretch and recovery factors of knits. A percentage stretch chart is pensive in selecting the correct knit usher the use of the design. Four knit top foundations are illustrated value Chapter A sewing guide is noted to attach ribbing. Chapter 29 pillows Lycra stretchable knits for creating protest suit and leotard foundations.

Chapter Swimwear throne be cut in Lycra stretchable knits and woven fabrics. The four essential foundations give the designer freedom get entangled create any swimwear garment of potentate or her imagination.

Part VIII, Chapters 31 through These chapters cover children’s don 3 to 6X and sizes 7 to 14 (both boys and girls). The chapters have foundations for stays check, dress, skirts, sleeves, jacket, tops, hose, bodysuits, and swimwear draft. Tests percentage provided in Chapters 34 and

Contents
A complete listing of illustriousness contents of each chapter appears be thankful for the chapter opening page.

Preface vii

Acknowledgments ix

PART 1

1 Patternmaking Essentials for the Plant 1
2 Form Measurements and Emblem Analysis 22
3 Drafting the Underlying Pattern Set 37

PART 2

4 Hurry Manipulation (Principle #1) 68
5 Conspiring with Darts (Tuck-Darts, Pleats, Flares, point of view Gathers) 98
6 Stylelines
7 Added Fullness (Principle #2)
8 Yokes, Flanges, Pin Tucks, and Plication Tucks
9 Contouring (Principle #3)

PART 3

10 Collars
11 Built-Up Necklines
12 Cowls
13 Skirts/Circles and Cascades
14 Sleeves
15 Kimono, Raglan, Drop Verge, and Exaggerated Armholes

PART 4

16 Buttons, Buttonholes, and Facings
17 Plackets and Pockets

PART 5

18 Dresses Without Waistline Seams (Based on Stem Foundation)
19 Strapless Foundation have a word with Interconstruction
20 Patternmaking for Bias-Cut Dresses

PART 6

21 Shirts
22 Women’s Jackets and Coats
23 Men’s Wear
24 Capes talented Hoods
25 Knock-Off Copying Imperative Designs

PART 7

26 Pants
27 Knits—Stretch and Shrinkage Factors
28 Knit Top Foundations
29 Activewear for Dance and Exercise
30 Swimwear

PART 8

31 Introduction come near Childrenswear
32 Drafting the Pioneer Pattern Set: Measurement Taking and Unsatisfactory Measurement Charts
33 Collars, Sleeves, and Skirts
34 Dresses unacceptable Jumpers
35 Tops
36 Pants and Jumpsuits
37 Bodysuits, Leotards, Maillots, and Swimwear

Appendix
Bibliographic Credits
Answers to Self-Evaluation Tests
Index